- நயன்தாரா சூரியநாராயணன்

கோடைகாலம் தொடங்கும்போதே நம் பாட்டியின் கைமணமும், அவர்கள் அன்போடு பரிமாறிய உணவுகளின் நினைவுகளும் தானாகவே வந்துவிடும். வெயிலுக்கு இதுதான் உடம்புக்கு நல்லது என்று அவர்கள் அடிக்கடி சொல்லும் அந்த உன்னதமான உணவு: பழைய சாதம்.

இதோ அதைப் பற்றிய அழகான கட்டுரை.. 

The advent of summer brings with it old cherished memories of some dishes that my grandma made for me. She always used to say that this is the best thing to eat in summers as it will help in combat the heat and also is very healthy. One such cherished dish is ferment rice or what we call Pazhaiya Sadam or fermented rice in water. In a world constantly searching for the next superfood, this ancient preparation stands quietly in the background—unchanged, unbranded, and incredibly effective. Sometimes, the most powerful foods are not discovered. They are remembered.

Long before refrigerators and modern kitchens, people had already discovered a quiet, powerful way to preserve food through fermentation. Nearly 10,000 years ago, in the fertile lands of ancient China and the Indus Valley, this practice began to take shape. Among the many foods transformed by time and microbes, rice held a special place.

In the Indian subcontinent, the roots of fermented rice stretch deep into history, possibly as far back as 7000–8000 BCE. Ancient verses of the Rigveda speak of sura, a fermented drink made from boiled rice or barley, hinting at a time when people had already mastered the art of controlled decay. Ayurveda, too, carried forward this knowledge, recognizing fermented foods not just as sustenance, but as something beneficial for the body.

But this tradition wasn’t confined to texts and rituals—it lived in the everyday rhythms of rural life. Farmers, returning home after long, exhausting days under the sun, would soak leftover rice in water and leave it overnight. By morning, something simple had transformed into something nourishing. The fermented rice was cool, slightly tangy, and refreshing—perfect for humid climates and weary bodies.

Over generations, this humble dish evolved. What began as a practical solution slowly turned into a cultural habit, accompanied by salt, onions, chilies, or whatever was available. Each region added its own touch, its own flavour. Yet, at its heart, the process remained unchanged—a quiet continuation of an ancient wisdom, passed down not through books, but through daily life.

Every state has embraced this fermented rice in its own way, shaping it according to climate, culture, and taste. Though the base remains the same, each variation tells a different story.

In Kerala, the dish takes the form of Pazhamkanji, made using nutrient-rich Matta rice. Known for its earthy flavour and high fibre content, it is typically paired with spicy accompaniments like bird’s eye chillies (kanthari mulagu), coconut chutney, and fish curry.

In Tamil Nadu, it becomes Pazhaiya Sadam a rice mixed with buttermilk and salt, and served with small onions or pickles, it reflects a practical, everyday approach to health and nourishment. Meanwhile, in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, it is known as Chaddannam or Saddi Annam, often eaten as a hearty breakfast with curd, raw onions, and chillies. moving towards eastern side, In West Bengal, the dish is known as Panta Bhat. Lightly seasoned with salt, sometime mustard oil, raw onions, and green chillies, it is both simple and deeply flavourful. During Bengali new year, it transforms into a festive meal, often served with mashed potatoes (Aloo Bhate) and…